Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Northern Ireland

This past weekend, I had my last class trip. The first trip we took was a beautiful trip to the west of Ireland right at the beginning of spring break. This trip was a pretty different. For the trip, we headed up to Northern Ireland for the weekend.

Of course, most of us know about the Troubles in Northern Ireland, have seen news of bombings, riots, and murders (not as much though for my generation since things have really calmed down especially since the Good Friday Agreement of 1998). But seeing it on the news is so different from going to where it actually takes place.

In that sense, the trip was rather sobering (though we did have some fun). We drove up on Friday and first stopped at Intertrade Ireland. It is an organization set up to promote trade and business relations between Ireland and Northern Ireland. Basically, their goal is an all-island economy though they can't really say this because some Unionists don't like that idea. After that, we headed up to Belfast and Stormont, where their Legislative assembly meets. The assembly was dissolved in the 1970s and power went solely to Westminster. The Good Friday Agreement gave power back to Northern Ireland though due to other disagreements they have only been self-governing now for about 2 years, which is the longest stretch of time since before the 1970s. We had a Q&A period with a DUP politician. The DUP, Democratic Unionist Party, is the hardline Unionist party and the majority party currently in the assembly. I should've probably first said that there are 2 big divides in Northern Irish politics (and they aren't by religion though that is a big indicator of which side you fall on). The divide is between Unionists, who support the Union with Britain, and Nationalists, who would favor unification with Ireland. Of course, the Unionists tend to be Protestant and the Nationalists tend to be Catholic. The DUP guy we talked with was actually really young, only 29, but boy, did he have an answer for everything! It actually got a little tense at times because our professor, Kevin, who is extremely knowledgeable and not afraid to ask the tough questions, wouldn't back down on things. But it was extremely informative. It was interesting to see how the Troubles had affected this young man who missed the worst of the Troubles. Yet, you could clearly identify his biases, especially towards Sinn Fein, the nationalist party at the other side of the spectrum. (he insinuated that they were all terrorists) The thing is with the situation that these politicians are bitter enemies. Some of them probably did plot each others' deaths. Many Sinn Fein members spent time in prison. Yet now these two political groups are expected to work together. No wonder things are still so complicated there.

Friday night we headed out of Belfast to our hotel. We ate a great dinner the highlight of which was a dessert called Banoffee pie. I think it's an Irish thing because I had never heard of it before. Basically it is a toffee and banana pie which is just delicious. That night at our hotel there wasn't much to do in the town so most of us just hung out in the hotel bar. They had a Dj and though the clientele was much much older than all of us (think 60s and 70s) we had a good time. They were probably pretty amused with us American college students out on the dance floor that night.

The next morning we went to Giant's Causeway, which is an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic eruption (thank you wikipedia). It was really cool! (Even when Kevin gave us an extended lecture out on the Causeway where it was really windy and really cold.) We also went on the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge out to this island originally used for fishing and sheep grazing. It was a great time for those of us who aren't scared of heights.For the afternoon we went back into Dublin and had a tour of Belfast with a local man, Peter Maguire. This tour focused on the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods and the political murals in these areas. Peter grew up in Belfast in the near the Falls Road in the Catholic area. He gave us personal insight into what Belfast was like during the Troubles. His grandfather was beaten to death for being Catholic, one of his uncles was killed, and he also lost his best friend. He himself was beaten badly by a British officer one time when all he was doing was driving a date back home. His point-of-view helped me understand why the situation is so complicated. It is because for these people it is so personal. Many of these people had someone close to them killed or in some way hurt during the Troubles. (Kevin gave the statistic that the death toll in Northern Ireland which was about 4000 during the troubles would be equivalent to 5 million Americans dying when you compare the populations.) I was also shocked during the tour to see that they still have "peace" walls separating the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. These aren't just dividing fences but huge, tall walls (taller than the street lamps) which are supposed to prevent people from throwing petrol bombs over. They even have gates that close on the through roads each night. There are many of these walls throughout Dublin. Besides this we also saw many political murals. These were also a bit intimidating, especially the many that glorified violence.
Sorry I have rambled on so long about this trip. But it really got me thinking about the situation there. It is incredibly complicated and people forget that. It will be interesting to see what kind of progress is made in my lifetime.

Next up on the slate is Notre Dame's Easter Pilgrimage to Rome!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Finally caught up!


Hello everyone! Once I finish this post the blog will be officially up-to-date on all my spring break adventures! Finally! As you can tell, I was pretty busy for my 2 weeks of break. Class trip, then Italy, then my family visited! So the morning after I got back from Florence my friend Ashley and I headed to the airport to meet my mom, dad, and Andy! While waiting we played fun people watching games such as Rugby fan or Not a Rugby fan (Ireland played Wales that day) and American or not an American (more entertaining than the rugby game). Finally they arrived and we got our rental car. Now this shows how good a friend Ashley is that she would be willing to ride in the rental car with us in Dublin where they drive on the left and not the right like we Americans are used to. Dad did fine though. No accidents or anything like that.

Ashley and I spent the day dragging my very jet lagged family around a very crowded Dublin (because of the rugby match that day and St. Patrick's day coming up). We gave them a little walking tour and then I took them to the Guinness Storehouse that afternoon where I was the only one to drink the complimentary pint of Guinness. Disappointing, isn't it? But I guess I understand because it is an acquired taste and I only just started to not mind drinking it this past month. We ate dinner at a nice Italian place near the hotel that night so my poor family could go to bed early.The next morning everyone woke up feeling much better--no more jet lag! We drove to Galway, checked into our B&B there and then just walked along the Salt Hill Prom and through Galway. We got dinner at a really cool pub and then headed back to the B&B to go to bed early.

The next morning the plan was to drive to the Cliffs of Moher and then do the Dingle Peninsula. Driving to the Cliffs of Moher was a bit of an adventure. We somehow ended up driving on a little one-lane road through the Burren, where there really isn't anything. Thankfully the GPS got us to the Cliffs just fine. The Cliffs of Moher were really cool and were something that I had not done yet. We had nice weather which was good because it can get pretty windy and cold up there. From there we drove down to the Dingle Peninsula which took a lot longer than we anticipated. So we didn't get to spend any time in Dingle but did get to drive the Slea Head Drive on the peninsula. I'd done that on my class trip just about a week before but it was still just as beautiful. We headed to Killarney then because all of us were pretty tired and hungry and crabby.The next day we headed out to Muckross House and Torc Waterfall before driving through Killarney National Park and doing the Ring of Kerry. Again this was a lot of fun even though it was WINDY out! We ate lunch at a nice local pub called the Blind Piper and had great seafood chowder. Another great dinner in Killarney that night was followed by some traditional Irish music. The first pub we went to had way too many Americans in it for my liking. Thankfully, we stumbled upon the place the locals go and had a lot better time there.
The next morning it was time to leave Killarney. We made a stop in Kinsale, a cute little fishing village, on our way to Waterford. There we got a walking tour from this really nice, really funny, and really knowledgeable local guy. From there we drove to the Rock of Cashel, ruins of a cathedral and also where St. Patrick baptised the king of Munster. That night we were staying in Waterford...in a castle!! It was on its own little island with a car ferry over to it. We ate dinner that night at the hotel. It was so nice! We had a four course meal, started eating at 7 and weren't done till 9:30! Probably the fanciest dinner I've ever had.

And then it was time to head back to Dublin. We drove through rain that morning (the only rain while my family visited!) but thankfully it had stopped by the time we reached Dublin. That afternoon we saw the Book of Kells and Trinity Library, which was awesome especially for someone like me who loves books! We also went to Christ Church Cathedral and St. Stephen's Green. That night we ate pub grub at one of my favorite pubs, O'Neills.
So that was it! It was a whirlwind tour of Ireland but we had a great time! I was so happy that my family was able to come visit! And now I've caught you up on all the goings on of my spring break!

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Florence: My Dream Trip


Those of you who know me well know that the one place I really wanted to travel to while I was here was Florence! I have a bit of an obsession with the Medici family, the ruling Florentine family during the Renaissance. So I was really really happy when I found a group of friends to travel with me to Florence for the first week of spring break!

Having our class trip the weekend before travelling to Italy made everything a little crazy. We got back from our class trip about 9:30 Sunday night and then I had to be up at 4 the next morning to get to the airport to fly to Italy!

We flew from Dublin to Bologna and then caught a train to Florence. We ended up getting into Florence around 3 that afternoon. Our hostel was nice and really close to everything! We decided to try to do a little bit of sightseeing that afternoon. We went to the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, walking by the Duomo on the way. And after that we went to the Palazzo Vecchio. Both were really cool. We also had a nice surprise because Italy was celebrating International Women's Day so we girls got into both palaces for free!

Dinner that night was AMAZING! We ate at a little trattoria. I had bruschetta as an appetizer, gorgonzola ravioli and then pork loin. (And of course some great Italian wine.) It was the best meal I have had in a long time! Afterwards we met up with one of Ryan's friends who is studying in Florence and had our first gelato! That may have been one of my favorite parts of the trip. It was awesome!Tuesday morning we headed out early to beat the crowds at the Galleria dell'Accademia. This is of course where Michelangelo's David is kept as well as a lot of other great Renaissance artwork. Then we headed to the Cappelle Medicee, the Medici Chapels, and browsed through the local markets where we got paninos for lunch (again YUM!). That afternoon we went into the Duomo and Baptistery. We managed to squeeze the Bargello in as well. This museum had some impressive sculpture and also Donatello's David, one of my favorites. After that museum we managed to sneak into the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo to see a few more church artefacts but by this time we were all pretty tired and all this religious art was kind of starting to look the same. We retreated to our hostel for a quick break and then headed out for dinner. (I'll admit it--I ate gelato for dinner that night.)

The next morning it was time for the Uffizi, the most visited museum in Italy. It is the site of Botticelli's Birth of Venus and La Primavera (love those) as well as a myriad of other paintings. I loved that museum and it took us all morning to get through!
Unfortunately, Ryan started to not feel so well so he just stayed in the hostel that afternoon.
We girls were fine on our own and got to do some more girly things that afternoon. We browsed the jewelry shops on Ponte Vecchio on our way out to the Palazzo Pitti. At the palace we went through the Galleria Palatina and the Royal Apartments. The Galleria Palatina was nice if a little ostentatious. Imagine a lavishly decorated room. Then put priceless artwork on top. It was a little overwhelming. We also went into the Boboli Gardens, the gardens of the palace. The weather had been pretty bad but thankfully there was no precipitation that afternoon. The gardens were beautiful but the real highlight for me was that there were cats! Apparently the guards there feed some of the strays and they're really friendly because of all the tourists. I've missed my cats so much so it was nice to get to have one around for a bit. After the gardens we headed back into the Palazzo Pitti (there are like 5 museums in it). Since it was only us girls we went through the Costume Gallery which was basically a small fashion museum. We also went into the modern art museum. Now the Florentine idea of modern art is much different than ours. Basically modern art for them is anything after the Renaissance. It was not quite what we expected but we really enjoyed it!

For dinner that night we had bruschetta and pasta again. Another wonderful Italian meal! And gelato for dessert, of course.

The next morning Ryan was feeling a little bit better but decided to stay in for the morning. While he rested, we went to 2 churches: Santissima Annunziata and San Marco. Then we did a little more shopping in the markets. Before lunch we also went to the Anthropology museum since my friend Melissa is an Anthro major. After lunch, we went to 3 more churches: Orsanmichele, San Lorenzo, and Santa Croce. All three were beautiful. We finished up the day with a stop at the Museo di Storia della Scienza (for Marita and Ryan, the science majors of the group). That night ended with pizza for dinner and gelato at our favorite place called Perhce No! (Why Not!).
Basically the time in Florence was amazing and we packed a lot into our days! Friday our group parted ways. Ryan and Melissa were heading down to Naples, Marita to Geneva, and me back to Dublin. I was a little nervous about flying back by myself because I had to take a train to Bologna, get to the airport, and then fly back all alone. But it's funny how the day ended up working out. First, when we got to the train station, Marita and I figured out that we were on the same train. I just had to get off the stop before hers. I got to the airport in Bologna around 9:30 but when I got to the airport saw that my 11:15 flight was delayed till 3:15. This made me a little nervous. I was flying Ryanair which is not always known for its reliability. They were checking baggage, though, so I figured the flight was official. I headed through passport control even though I had a really long wait ahead of me. I sat near my gate and tried not to worry about whether or not I'd actually make it back to Dublin. A girl about my age was sitting near me and after a little bit we got to talking. We figured out we were both American and both heading to Dublin. She was studying for the semester in Bologna. Of course imagine our surprise when we figured out that we were both Notre Dame students!! She (her name was Bianca) was flying in for the weekend to see one of the ND girls. Needless to say, that connection made us instant friends and we spent the next 5 hours just chatting. She was able to tell me that the flight was delayed because the Italians were on strike from 11-2. We finally got into Dublin around 6 and I took Bianca to meet her friend.

It's such a small world, isn't it? I was so glad to run into Bianca and we're hoping to hang out again when we are both in Rome for Easter.

Still need to do one more post till I am up-to-date on everything! Hopefully can get that done before the weekend!

Friday, March 19, 2010

Class trip to Kenmare!

First of all, let me say sorry for the lack of updates! Life has been pretty crazy! I spent the 2 weeks between my Stockholm trip and spring break mostly writing papers and catching up on work in general. One weekend I did help my friend Ashley show 2 friends (who are both in ND's Austria study abroad program) around Dublin. It was nice being one of the experts on the city for a weekend!

And after those 2 weeks, it was spring break! Now, I got 2 weeks of spring break here which is crazy. And I spent most of those 2 weeks travelling. So since I haven't posted in a long time, I have a lot to say about all this travelling!!!

The first trip I took for spring break was a 3-day class trip to Kenmare in the west of Ireland. It was great! First of all because ND paid for our hotel (so much nicer than hostels!) and for most of our meals. Second, because I realized just how much fun all the people in our ND group are. Third, because Kevin, our programme director, knows so much about Ireland! Fourth, because the weather was absolutely amazing (pretty much unheard of in that part of Ireland). So you get the picture. The trip was pretty awesome.

On Friday, we drove from Dublin out to the Ring of Kerry, actually a pretty long trip. The Ring of Kerry was beautiful though. It was probably one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. My pictures and descriptions really don't do it any justice. That night we got into Kenmare and ate a great dinner at the hotel (3 courses-so good for us poor college students). Then we headed over to a pub and divided up into teams to play pool and jenga! It was a really really fun night with our Notre Dame group!
The next day we headed out on a walking tour of Kenmare with a local retired principal. Kenmare was a cute little Irish town with a lot of history! After a light lunch (read: Coke and chocolate digestives--the diet of poor college students), we went out to the local hurling club to learn hurling. Hurling is an Irish sport. It's kind of like lacrosse or field hockey but not quite. You play with a wooden bat thing called a hurley. I'm really doing a horrible job of trying to explain this so here is the wikipedia article if you really want to know http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurling. It was a lot of fun and the Irish guys were really patient trying to teach us Americans how to play. We also learned a bit of Gaelic football (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaelic_football). After that we hiked in the Killarney National Park before another night at the pub.
Sunday we drove the Slea Head Drive on the Dingle Peninsula (also one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen) and then it was back to Dublin! That's my class trip in a nutshell. It was a great way to start spring break!

More to come in my next posts about the rest of my spring break!